Following World War II, Jacques Fath (played an important role in reviving the Paris fashion industry with colorful and inventive designs that appealed to a young and sophisticated clientele who identified with the brand’s vitality. Jacques Fath, born in 1912 in Maisons-Laffitte, presented his first collection in 1937 from a two-room salon on Rue de la Boetie. Fath’s untimely death at the age of forty-two, along with Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain, meant that the impact and importance of his work were often overlooked compared to that of his contemporaries, despite him being considered one of the “big three” Paris designers in the early 1950s. Fath’s understanding of publicity and marketing set him apart from his peers, not his designs, which embodied the glamour of the postwar era.
Beginning of the career
Fath’s family encouraged him to enter the business world after he graduated from college. He realized, however, that a more creative career lay ahead after completing a year of military service. In addition to attending drama school, he also took evening drawing and pattern cutting courses. In the spring of 1937, Fath showed his first collection of twenty garments in the rue de la Boetie, where he established his couture house. Even though Fath lived hand-to-mouth in the 1930s, he was well received for the collection and built up a loyal clientele. He recalls how Fath would often purchase fabric from a garment deposit later in years. He served in the French Army during World War II. He continued to run his house on a small scale even after he was demobilized following the fall of France to the Germans in 1940. Following his first move, Fath found a permanent residence for his label in an imposing eighteenth-century building on Avenue Pierre Premier de Serbie. In 1945, he designed four fashion dolls for the Théâtre de la Mode, a traveling exhibition of top Parisian designers. In 1939, Fath married Geneviève Boucher de la Bruyère, a photographer’s model and fellow drama student. The elegantly finished style of the Jacques Fath woman was epitomized in her modeling of many of Fath’s early creations.
Boutique and Perfume
In the United States, Fath provided two collections a year, each comprising about twenty models. In 1945, he released his first perfume, Chasuble, and a year later, Iris Gris. He signed a contract with the New York manufacturer Joseph Halpert in 1948, realizing the tremendous potential for expanding his business in the United States. In 1949, Rita Hayward chose him to design her wedding dress and trousseau for her marriage to Prince Aly Khan, further increasing his popularity in America.
In 1950, Fath launched his perfume Canasta and opened a boutique. The boutique offered more affordable items like scarves, ties, and stockings. The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture selected him as one of five designers to form an associated group of couturiers, alongside Carven, Dresses, Paquin, and Piguet. To market his growing line of scents, he established Parfums Jacques Fath later that year. To target a larger market, Fath launched a ready-to-wear collection in 1953, preempting similar moves from other designers. In the United States, the designer had seen fast and efficient mass-production methods that inspired Jacques Fath’s Université collection.
Fath’s love of the dramatic was evident in his clothes. His inspiration came from historic costumes, the theater, and the ballet. His use of the bustle and corsetry as recurring motifs and his playful and undulating lines are evidence of these influences. He crafted hourglass shapes with plunging necklines, sharp pocket details, and dramatic pleats. Fath experimented with asymmetry, pleating, and volume for both day and evening wear. His skirts cascaded from beneath his signature constricted waistlines or appeared as explosions of fabric under large enveloping coats and jackets. His clever use of color ranged from soft juxtapositions to loud prints in solid hues. In many of his designs, tartan and plain fabrics were combined in one garment, and he was not afraid to use bold modern prints to enhance the controlled lines of his tailored clothing.
Jacques Fath died tragically young at the age of forty-two in 1954. With over six hundred employees, he left behind a fashion empire at the height of its success. In 1957, Geneviève Fath closed the clothing line after valiantly taking over the business. After 1992, a succession of companies acquired the Fath name as a perfume label. The France Luxury Group resurrected the Fath clothing line in 2002 to resurrect the once great house’s success.
#1 Bettina in evening gown with fern leaf motif by Jacques Fath, Vogue, 1950
#2 Bettina and Jean Patchett in gowns by Jacques Fath, 1950
#3 Bettina in a Jacques Fath ball gown fit for a queen, 1950
#4 Bettina in the “Red Shoes” evening gown by Jacques Fath, photo by Irving Penn, Vogue, September 1950
#5 Evelyn Tripp in dress by Jacques Fath, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, 1950.
#6 Evelyn Tripp in dress by Jacques Fath, photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, 1950
#7 Sophie is wearing exquisite faded rose velvet coatdress trimmed in mink by Jacques Fath, veiled mink hat, jeweled clips by Roger Scemama, 1950
#8 Bettina and Sophie in silk taffeta dresses by Jacques Fath, photo by John Rawlings, originally published in American Vogue, 1951
#9 Eva Gerney in gorgeous ball gown by Jacques Fath, Vogue, May 1, 1951
#10 Jackie Stoloff in purple woolen coat, belted over gray skirt by Jacques Fath, photo by Philippe Pottier, 1951
#11 Lucky in pink geranium velvet cocktail dress adorned with black ribbon bow, by Jacques Fath, 1951
#12 Lucky is wearing emerald green satin evening gown by Jacques Fath to compliment magnificent emerald and diamond parure by Cartier, 1951
#13 Sophie Malgat in Fath’s dégrade orange pleated tulle evening gown with floral bodice called “Sunbeam”, April 1951
#14 Sophie Malgat in green wool coat with giant buttons lined diagonally, waist is cinched by patent leather belt, worn with white piqué hat, 1951
#15 Unpublished photo of model Julia in Jacques Fath evening gown for British Vogue by Horst P. Horst, 1951
#16 Anne Gunning is wearing a black grosgrain shawl in two layers with slits for the hands over a square-necked white grosgrain dress by Susan Small after Fath, 1952
#17 Joan Whelan in two-piece silk crepe dress with finely pleated skirt by Jacques Fath,photo by Pottier, 1952
#18 Model in simple but elegant wool coat and grey jersey turban by Jacques Fath, croc handbag by P. & R.Dubost, 1952
#19 Sophie Malgat is wearing satin gown by Jacques Fath, 1952
#20 Suzy Parker in gown by Jacques Fath, photo by Horst, Vogue, April 1952
#21 Anne Gunning in gown by Jacques Fath, photo by Mark Shaw, 1953
#22 Anne Gunning in white satin gown with velvet ribbon outlining the bosom by Jacques Fath, photographed in the foyer at Fath’s chateau at Corbeville by Mark Shaw, 1953
#23 Anne Gunning in woolen redingote with velvet collar by Jacques Fath, 1953
#24 Dovima wearing a taupe wool and velvet suit by Ben Zuckerman with a red hat by Jacques Fath, photo by Horst P. Horst used for cover of Vogue, 1953
#25 Marie-Thérèse in silk gauze dress, the bodice, decorated with two bows, falls into soft pleats in the skirt, black patent leather belt cinches the waist, by Jacques Fath, 1953
#26 Myrtle Crawford in pale mauve chiffon evening gown, wide satin bands in two tones of purple extend to the floor, by Jacques Fath, 1953
#27 Stella in black and white silk ottoman cocktail sheath with matching coat lined in pink satin by Jacques Fath, 1953
#28 Suzy Parker in ball gown of blue satin with intricately seamed bodice, back-swung and bow-knot sleeves by Jacques Fath, Vogue, Novermber 1, 1953
#29 Ann Farrar in sumptuous brocade dress and jacket trimmed in mink by Jacques Fath, 1954
#30 Anne Campion in orange wool coat in the new 3/4 length with deep indented collar and large pockets by Jacques Fath, 1954
#31 Anne Gunning in beautiful satin-striped silk organdy gown in floral print of reds and dusky leaves worn under its Victorian jacket by Jacques Fath, Vogue, April 15, 1954
#32 Elinor in classic overcoat buttoned all the way with large patch pockets, worn over tailored suit with pleated skirt by Jacques Fath, 1954
#33 Joan Whelan in pink and gray print silk dress, the lining of the pink wool coat matches the dress, by Jacques Fath, 1954
#34 Marie-Hélène in bright red wool coat by Jacques Fath, 1954
#35 Marie-Hélène in silver lamé ensemble, the coat is lined in quilted brown satin, the collar is sable, large pockets hang on each side, worn with small brown velvet cap, by Jacques Fath, 1954
#36 Marie-Thérèse in 7/8 coat cut full in the back worn over slim jersey dress in same color by Jacques Fath, croc handbag by Amaryllis, 1954
#37 Myrtle Crawford in a silk floral print afternoon dress worn with wide-brimmed green straw hat, by Jacques Fath, 1954
#38 Patricia Prunonosa is wearing white back-laced bodice brassiere, lace petticoat, and black lace topped stockings from the Jacques Fath collection, Vogue, 1954
#39 La Librairie”, Carmen Dell’ Orefice is wearing coat by Jacques Fath, photo by Georges Dambier, Paris, 1954
#40 Presentation of a dress created by Jacques Fath for Rita Hayworth, May 9, 1949, in Paris.
#41 Presentation of Jacques Fath’s new collection in Paris, April 1949.Presentation of Jacques Fath’s new collection in Paris, April 1949.
#42 Model presenting a blue woolen afternoon dress with its white gloves and hat, Summer collection, in Paris, France, on February 26, 1949.
#43 Jacques Fath’S Seamstresses Making Rita Hayworth’S Wedding Dress Paris 1949
#44 Model in a Day Dress by Jacques Fath
#45 French actress Francoise Christophe speaking over the phone in the film Scandale aux Champs-Elysées, 1949.
#46 Rita Hayworth, French fashion designer Jacques Fath and Ali Khan in Paris, France in 1949.
#47 French fashion designer and actor Jacques Fath and French actress Francoise Christophe acting in the film Scandale aux Champs-Elysées, 1949.
#48 A model wearing a Jacques Fath design at the designer’s Summer 1948 fashion show in Paris, France, February 1948.
#49 A fashion show for the Jacques Fath spring collection in Paris, France, February 1948.
#50 A female fashion model wears a camel wool coat in beige with leather belt and gilt buttons, part of the new collection from French couture designer Jacques Fath in Paris, France, 25th October 1945.
#51 A female fashion model wears a home gown of Angora jersey in red with matching hood, both trimmed with black rabbit, part of the new collection from French couture designer Jacques Fath in Paris, France, 25th October 1945.
#52 Woman wearing a hat with a veil, holding a bouquet of flowers, Paris, 1943.
#53 Actress of Domonican Origin, 1940s
#54 Presentation of the collection of Jacques Fath in Paris, 1954
#55 Presentation of the collection of Jacques Fath in Paris, 1954
#56 Jacques Fath in Paris, 1951
#57 Model showing an ermine collar with his black coat from the Autumn 54 collection. Model Jacques Fath at the Dorchester Hotel, London on September 29, 1954.
#58 Model showing a cocktail dress, in beige satin with her coat from the autumn 54 collection. Model Jacques Fath at the Dorchester Hotel, London on September 29, 1954.
#59 Evening dress in black velvet, white satin belt, for winter 1953-1954. Created by Jacques Fath, Paris on August 21, 1953.
#60 Round hat in gray astrakhan from South Africa. The encrusted grosgrain forms the crown. This model is worn forward on the forehead. Created by Jacques Fath, Paris 1955.
#61 Red and green tweed dress with a long black astrakhan stole tied as a tie, a black astrakhan hat completes this set. Created by Jacques Fath, Paris 1955.
#62 The Jacques Fath house presented its collection of accessories, bags and hats. Paris 1955.
#63 Green velvet evening dress with large puff sleeves and draped skirt. Created by Jacques Fath. London on September 26, 1955.
#64 Presentation of the collection of trinkets, stockings and swimsuits. Jacques Fath collection. Paris on April 28, 1955.
#65 Model presenting a model by Jacques Fath, a spring hat and gloves, in Paris, France on January 28, 1957.
#66 Model wearing a Jacques Fath model in 1957.
#67 Genevieve Fath, Widow of Fath Jacques Couturier, 1956
#68 Model wearing a Jacques Fath model in 1957.
#69 Model in Beach Suit and Reaching to Her Unusual Hat
The pearls of the crown are tucked right into the crown of a black felt beach helmet that is teamed with this cover-up beach costume from Jacques Fath. The black woolen suit, with sleeves and a long (for beachwear) skirt, has a wide yellow belt to emphasize the dropped waistline.
#70 A ‘ready-made’ afternoon dress designed by Jacques Fath, polka dotted with long sleeves, tight waist and muslin shawl collar. The House That Fath Built, 1955
#71 Female Model Holding Parasol
#72 Genevieve Fath lounges in a loveseat, wearing an outfit designed by her late husband, Jacques Fath, 1955
#73 Models wear hats designed by Rose Valois, Gilbert Orcel and Jacques Fath on January 27, 1955 in Paris, France.
#74 A Model Presenting An Ensemble (Dress And Coat) From The Jacques Fath Fashion House, 1955
#75 Woman Modeling Ensemble by Jacques Fath
A lace cocktail ensemble of mauve-gray lace by Paris designer Jacques Fath features the narrow clinging silhouette that is the keynote of the Paris collections for fall. A rim of darker grey shirred jersey outlines the bare-shouldered decollate. A straight cardigan jacket serves to accent the long, lean lines of the dress beneath. Worn with the ensemble is a hyacinth blue velvet hat which has a faint suggestion of side-draping and hugs the head like a bathing cap.
#76 Evening Dress by Jaques Fath in Dorchester, 1954
#77 A cocktail dress and waist length fitted jacket in cream satin made by Jacques Fath, September 1954.
#78 Fashion Collections of Couture Designers Spring Summer 1954.
#79 A model presenting an outfit from the new collection by fashion designer Jacques Fath, 1954
#80 Jacques Fath and his models. Preparation of the spring 1954 collection.
#81 An Evening Dress by Jacques Fath.
This model is presenting an evening dress called Sans Regis for Jacques Fath's Spring-Summer collection. It is a mauve silk sheath dress inlaid with sequins held tight, firstly on the top of the dress and spaced out on the bottom of the dress. A big satin knot of the same color, which large tails fall until the knees, is trimming the front of this original dress.
#82 Paule, a model discovered by Jacques Fath, presents spring hats. Hat ‘La belote’ by Svend, 1953
#83 Fashion Spring-summer, 1953
#84 Caps of Spring, 1953
#85 Zsa Zsa Gabor wearing a Jacques Fath outfit n grey and black silk, designed for the film ‘Public Enemy Number 1’, 1953
#86 Zsa Zsa Gabor poses in a Jacques Fath outfit for the film ‘Public Enemy Number 1’, 1953. The outfit is in grey and black silk with mauve lining and gloves.
#87 Fashion Collection of ‘couturiers Associes’ Spring 1951
#88 Fashion Collection Of ‘couturiers Associes’ Spring 1951
#89 Fashion Collection Of ‘couturiers Associes’ Spring 1951.
#90 Afashion model wearing a clothing created by Jacques Fath.
#91 Fashion Collection Of ‘couturiers Associes’ Spring, 1951
#92 Famous haute couture designer, Jacques Fath arranges a model’s dress
#93 Fashion Collection Of ‘couturiers Associes’ 1950
#94 Fashion Collection Of ‘couturiers Associes’ 1951
#95 Fashion Collection Of ‘couturiers Associes’ Autumn Winter 1950/1951
#96 Fashion Collection Of ‘couturiers Associes’ Autumn Winter 1950/1951
#97 A model presenting for Jacques Fath, a gold-embroidered satin sheath dress, which flares out in godets at the bottom.
#98 Fashion Show Of Jacques Fath Tailor, 1950.
#99 The Collection Spring Summer 1950 Jacques Fath
#100 Satin dress and black satin coat with nutria fur, Model: Jacques Fath, Paris, 1951
#101 A model poses in a pearl necklace (by Jacques Fath), August 9, 1949.
#102 Model Bettina Graziani shows one of the eleven Jacques Fath dresses chosen as a trousseau by screen star Rita Hayworth.
#103 Presentation of a skirt created by Jacques Fath for Rita Hayworth, May 9, 1949, in Paris.
#104 A model posing, wearing clothes, a dress, from Carven, Jean Desses, Jacques Fath, Jeanne Paquin, 1951
#105 Fashion Collection Of ‘couturiers Associes’ Autumn Winter 1950/1951.
#106 Fashion Collection Of ‘couturiers Associes’ Autumn Winter 1950/1951
#107 A model posing, wearing clothes, a suit, from Carven, Jean Desses, Jacques Fath, Jeanne Paquin, or Robert Piguet, in the studio, 1951
#108 Fashion Collection Of ‘couturiers Associes’ Autumn Winter, 1950
#109 A model posing, wearing clothes, a suit, from Carven, Jean Desses, Jacques Fath, Jeanne Paquin, 1950
#110 Woman Modeling Ensemble by Jacques Fath
A lace cocktail ensemble of mauve-gray lace by Paris designer Jacques Fath features the narrow clinging silhouette that is the keynote of the Paris collections for fall. A rim of darker grey shirred jersey outlines the bare-shouldered decollate. A straight cardigan jacket serves to accent the long, lean lines of the dress beneath. Worn with the ensemble is a hyacinth blue velvet hat which has a faint suggestion of side-draping and hugs the head like a bathing cap.
