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Fabulous Fashion Photography by Sante Forlano from the 1950s and 1960s

Sante Forlano built one of the most respected careers in American fashion photography during the 1950s and 1960s. His images appeared in some of the country’s most widely read fashion magazines, including Vogue, Glamour, Seventeen, and Redbook. Before his photography career took off in the United States, Forlano spent nearly a decade in Europe. From 1946 to 1954, he served as creative director at Christian Dior’s Paris and Rome offices — a role that placed him at the very center of postwar haute couture. When he returned to the U.S., he opened his own studio and began producing the bold, polished images that would define his legacy. He died of a heart attack at his home at 327 Lexington Avenue at the age of 49.

Forlano’s 1956 work shows the clean elegance that defined mid-decade fashion. Florals, structured coats, and fine lingerie sets were all on display that year.

Lucinda Hollingsworth wearing a green and black floral print dress, December 1956
Lucinda Hollingsworth wearing a green and black floral print dress, December 1956
Model is wearing a crimson coat with a high waist buttoned-on cape by Young Couture, fox hat by Emme,  1956
Model is wearing a crimson coat with a high waist buttoned-on cape by Young Couture, fox hat by Emme, 1956

The crimson coat and fox hat combination seen in one 1956 shot captures the theatrical boldness that defined fashion that year. Young Couture’s high-waisted buttoned-on cape and a fox hat by Emme made for a striking pairing. Forlano knew how to frame strong garments without letting the setting overshadow them.

Model wearing a night gown and peignoir by Vanity Fair, 1956
Model wearing a night gown and peignoir by Vanity Fair, 1956

By 1957, Forlano was shooting for major beauty and fashion campaigns. His portraits of models wearing Charles of the Ritz makeup and tailored wool suits showed his ability to blend beauty editorial work with clothing photography seamlessly.

Jan Rylander wearing Charles of the Ritz makeup, a wool tweed suit, 1957
Jan Rylander wearing Charles of the Ritz makeup, a wool tweed suit, 1957
Model is wearing a skirt of white chiffon with bodice of white cotton lace, October 1957
Model is wearing a skirt of white chiffon with bodice of white cotton lace, October 1957

The white chiffon skirt paired with a cotton lace bodice from October 1957 is a good example of Forlano’s eye for texture contrast. He often used soft, light fabrics against more structured pieces to create visual interest within a single frame.

Two models sporting plaid skirts and blouses of black worsted wool, with black berets, Vogue, August 1958
Two models sporting plaid skirts and blouses of black worsted wool, with black berets, Vogue, August 1958

This 1958 Vogue shot featuring two models in matching plaid skirts and black worsted wool blouses, finished with black berets, shows Forlano’s skill with multi-model compositions. Coordinating two figures in editorial work requires careful attention to balance and posing, and Forlano made it look effortless.

Joanna McCormick, 1959
Joanna McCormick, 1959

The year 1959 brought some of Forlano’s most inventive location shooting. One standout image placed a model directly atop the engine of a Pan American 707 Clipper jet, wearing a pink printed sharkskin jacket. The shot paired the sleek new age of jet travel with the glamour of contemporary fashion in a way that felt fresh and modern.

Model sitting atop the engine of Pan Am's 707 Clipper wearing a pink printed sharkskin jacket, 1959
Model sitting atop the engine of Pan Am’s 707 Clipper wearing a pink printed sharkskin jacket, 1959
Model wearing a knitted dress by Anne Fogarty, velvet hat by Emme and an alligator bag by Lucille, 1959
Model wearing a knitted dress by Anne Fogarty, velvet hat by Emme and an alligator bag by Lucille, 1959

Anne Fogarty was one of the designers Forlano photographed more than once. Her knitted dress, paired with a velvet hat by Emme and an alligator bag by Lucille, gave Forlano a strong set of textures and shapes to work with in 1959.

Model is arriving in Acapulco, Mexico with 'The Calareres'.
Model is arriving in Acapulco, Mexico with ‘The Calareres’.

Forlano took his camera on the road in 1960, shooting a model arriving in Acapulco, Mexico. She wore a Sportwhirl suit, carried a Ronay canvas bag, and accessorized with gold jewelry by Tiffany & Co. and a pink silk hat by Products of India. The mix of luxury American brands against a Mexican travel backdrop was a classic editorial move of the era.

Model is wearing a red linen Anne Fogarty dress and jewelry by Tiffany & 1960
Model is wearing a red linen Anne Fogarty dress and jewelry by Tiffany & 1960
Model is in a creme de coco cardigan jacket of Catoni velveteen, a long-sleeved Irish linen blouse, 1962
Model is in a creme de coco cardigan jacket of Catoni velveteen, a long-sleeved Irish linen blouse, 1962

The early 1960s brought a shift toward richer fabrics and more layered looks. Forlano’s 1962 work includes a velveteen cardigan jacket paired with an Irish linen blouse — a combination that blended warm texture with crisp structure.

Actor Tony Randall plays house with a model in the middle of Times Square, Manhattan, January 1963
Actor Tony Randall plays house with a model in the middle of Times Square, Manhattan, January 1963

In January 1963, Forlano staged one of his more theatrical shoots. Actor Tony Randall joined a model in the middle of Times Square for a playful “playing house” scene set right in the heart of Manhattan. The contrast between a domestic setup and one of the busiest intersections in the world made for an instantly memorable image.

Ginny Martin of Baylor University in Texas, is wearing midi-suit by Robert Sloan and hair by Kenneth, 1963
Ginny Martin of Baylor University in Texas, is wearing midi-suit by Robert Sloan and hair by Kenneth, 1963
Model is wearing a red suede suit by Highlander and cashmere sweater by de Loux, 1964
Model is wearing a red suede suit by Highlander and cashmere sweater by de Loux, 1964

By 1964, Forlano was shooting rich autumnal palettes. A red suede suit by Highlander worn over a cashmere sweater by de Loux gave the image both warmth and sophistication. His ability to capture the weight and softness of luxury fabrics through still photography was a consistent strength throughout his career.

Model is wearing a shimmery baby doll dress by Loomtogs, 1965
Model is wearing a shimmery baby doll dress by Loomtogs, 1965
Model is wearing a white bikini with blue, red and green poka dots by Rose Marie Reid, 1965
Model is wearing a white bikini with blue, red and green poka dots by Rose Marie Reid, 1965

1965 showed Forlano’s range clearly. He moved from a shimmery Loomtogs baby doll dress to a polka-dot bikini by Rose Marie Reid in the same year — two completely different looks and moods, each captured with the same confident eye.

Alexandra Hawley leans forward onto a lime green wool melton coat by Jr. Sophisticates, 1966
Alexandra Hawley leans forward onto a lime green wool melton coat by Jr. Sophisticates, 1966

The mid-1960s brought bolder colors into Forlano’s frame. A lime green wool melton coat by Jr. Sophisticates worn by Alexandra Hawley in 1966 is a strong example of the vivid, eye-catching tones that defined fashion photography of that period.

Model is wearing a brown corduroy suit and turtleneck sweater and handbag by I. Miller, 1966
Model is wearing a brown corduroy suit and turtleneck sweater and handbag by I. Miller, 1966
Model is wearing a long pink dress with a jeweled halter neck and a shocking pink wool evening coat, both by Pab Ltd, 1966
Model is wearing a long pink dress with a jeweled halter neck and a shocking pink wool evening coat, both by Pab Ltd, 1966

Also in 1966, Forlano photographed a long pink dress with a jeweled halter neck paired with a shocking pink wool evening coat, both by Pab Ltd. The monochromatic approach — using two different shades of pink together — was a bold styling choice that Forlano’s camera handled with precision.

In 1967, Forlano photographed a young Ali MacGraw before she became a household name as an actress. The shoots captured her in a yellow wool suit by Jacques Tiffeau with a white felt floppy hat by Emme, as well as an orange suit and a relaxed outdoor shot lying in the grass.

Ali MacGraw is modelling a yellow wool suit by Jacques Tiffeau and with a white felt floppy hat by Emme, March 1967
Ali MacGraw is modelling a yellow wool suit by Jacques Tiffeau and with a white felt floppy hat by Emme, March 1967
Ali MacGraw lying in grass, 1967
Ali MacGraw lying in grass, 1967
Ali MacGraw wearing an orange suit, March 1967
Ali MacGraw wearing an orange suit, March 1967

That same year, Forlano began working with Cheryl Tiegs, who was just beginning her rise as one of America’s most recognized models. His 1967 images of her show both versatility and presence — from a striped sleeveless dress to a tailored two-piece suit with a matching Emme hat.

Cheryl Tiegs modelling a black, red, and white striped sleeveless dress, 1967
Cheryl Tiegs modelling a black, red, and white striped sleeveless dress, 1967
Cheryl Tiegs modelling a two piece suit with a matching jacket by Lanz and a hat by Emme, 1967
Cheryl Tiegs modelling a two piece suit with a matching jacket by Lanz and a hat by Emme, 1967
Cheryl Tiegs, 1967
Cheryl Tiegs, 1967
Cheryl Tiegs, 1967
Cheryl Tiegs, 1967

Also in 1967, Forlano staged an editorial in front of the United Nations Headquarters in New York City. Two models posed in coordinated plaid looks — one in a blue and green wool suit by Louis Clausen, the other in a green and red plaid belted coat by Don Simonelli for Modelia. The UN building provided a grand, recognizable backdrop that added a sense of occasion to the shot.

Model on the left is wearing a blue and green plaid wool suit by Louis Clausen.
Model on the left is wearing a blue and green plaid wool suit by Louis Clausen.

Forlano’s final years of work carried the same attention to detail and styling that defined his earlier career. His 1969 shoot with Cheryl Tiegs showed a decidedly late-decade energy — she wore a Lurex smoking suit by Victor Joris and a silver and gold belt worn as a headband by Myra Harding. It was a look that belonged entirely to its moment.

Cheryl Tiegs wearing a silver and gold belt as a headband by Myra Harding and a groovy Lurex smoking suit by Victor Joris, 1969
Cheryl Tiegs wearing a silver and gold belt as a headband by Myra Harding and a groovy Lurex smoking suit by Victor Joris, 1969
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